Administered by:
Oooh. My local fabric store has a sale on #rainwear fabrics. There are 5 meters of bright blue Dintex on their way to me.
So now I have to choose a pattern. Anyone have a favourite #raincoat pattern?
Four years ago I made this coat intending it to be a mockup for something that would be waterproof. I've been wearing the mockup all that time. Now I have to decide if I want to do this same coat or a different one.
Final coat will definitely be mid-calf length to be bicycle friendly.
Having napped in order to think about this, here's a tentative plan:
Use the same pattern with some moderate adjustments:
*Make one size larger, this has always been a little tighter across my shoulders than I like.
*Leave off the long-waist adjustment. It was fiddly, didn't help much, and I probably won't need it in the larger size.
*Fully double breasted. I got lazy putting on buttons in the mockup, but there should be two rows.
More adjustments:
*I think this wants one or two more buttons on either side so the buttons are closer together and also extend just a little farther down the front.
*The inner layer also needs button holes and inward facing buttons under the decorative second row of buttons for extra security. Ugh. So many buttons
*If I have the fabric for it, a little more swishy in the skirt would be great. Extra width should be added at the seam between the front and side panels.
(Continues...)
More adjustments:
*extend the collar farther around the neck, possibly narrow it just a fraction and square off the front corner. I'm tired of that rounded look.
*Similarly convert the edge of the front shoulder flaps to be more angular. Add reflective tape to the edge of those front flaps.
*add more reflective tape in the back. I'm thinking vertically integrated with the back side seams.
*remove the decorative wrist loops. Reflective tape instead.
(Continues...)
Here's the less obvious thing:
*As proper rainwear, this should have a hood. Add a hood.
*I'm considering removing the front and back flaps from the shoulder seam and integrating them into a little cape bit with the hood. Removable if I don't always want all the bulk. If I extend that over the shoulder seam it will have the benefit of actually protecting that seam from some water. Like a small ulster cape?
Not sure, that might be Too Much
There are a few potential problems with this removable ulster cape plan:
*It should probably be tacked down to prevent it twisting around. Even More Buttons!
*It will definitely be a Look. Does that look work on me? No idea! Will all the extra fabric annoy me? Also no idea!
*It will probably be fabric hungry. I can probably work around that.
Oh and I almost forgot! I'd like to switch up the belt design too. I think I want some kind of a buckle in the front rather than that tie.
The internet is not providing much in the way of inspiration images to match the coat in my head.
In both of these the cape is a bit long, and there's no hood of course. The second isn't even double breasted. Neither is raingear.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1568352200/m-sizevintage-exclusive-brown-wool-coat
Ok! I am now mocking up hood/cape combos and putting them over my existing coat to see how it's all going to fit together.
I think I want the cape piece an inch or two longer, especially across the arms, that's the easy part.
The hood...It's probably fine once I get some stiffer fabric into the brim, but I'm just not quite happy yet.
Well all my pattern modifications and stuff have taken some time, but now we're here:
I think I can be a little more efficient with this layout yet.
This is the inside of the fabric. The outside is bright royal blue.
Cutting (of the spendy fabric) mostly completed. I've got an extra metre to figure out facings on the cape piece, the belt, and any other missing bits and bobs.
But, importantly, I've also got a pile of scrap I can use to figure out how to sew this weird waterproof stuff and how to seal the seams.
So what do all of you think about facings on the cape piece?
Possible solutions I'm considering:
None. Just hem up all around and finish the hood seams nicely.
Fully faced with the waterproof fabric.
Fully faced with the cotton I have for pocket bags and internal facings inside the coat.
Thick hem facing band in waterproof fabric.
Thick hem facing band in cotton.
Thick hem facing band in waterproof fabric combined with full cotton facing.
@Rivikah I love the Rainsisters coats, but I doubt they sell a pattern.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CxqGfwOM7IA/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
I could draft that.
Moderately fitted double breasted bodice with a waist seam and a flaring pleated skirt. Not that complicated.
I would also need a back vent for cycling. Again, I could make that modification.
️
Hmm, I like that pattern. You could always make it shorter, the belt longer and in the classic tan colour with an outrageous lining that can show when the coat is open.
Saw this pattern online from Ellie & Mac.
https://www.ellieandmac.com/cdn/shop/products/ACCEEB49-6313-4F57-8E29-5AA4891B3A41_800x.jpg?v=1675714271
@KDramaQn I made it longer than the original! And it's been great. The length is something I'm pretty confident I don't want to change.
@Rivikah No pattern recommendation but following replies with interest as I want to sew a bike-compatible raincoat too.
@lil_meow_meow The one I made as a mock up 4 years ago which has been working pretty well (except for the not actually a waterproof raincoat part) is based on the Sewaholic Robson coat: https://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/robson-coat-pdf-sewing-pattern/
I made it quite a bit longer because I wanted it to be as long as possible without encountering my chain as I ride. I also flared the skirt as much as my fabric would allow and added a back pleat and a back vent so that it wouldn't be pushed up by my top tube.
@Rivikah Thanks for explaining and the link!
I may knock mine off from a sort of RTW single-breasted trenchoat I wore almost threadbare, and add a couple of features from my RTW rainjacket that I like and some more. This project is in its conception phase but it's inspiring to follow those being ahead with similar plans. 
@Rivikah even stiffer, you'll want it cut it back just a hair. it'll fall in your face in any kind of wind, and on a bike in the rain, you'll be unconsciously tipping your head down a bit.
@Rivikah I believe in you
@Brodyberg it is done. I'll find out if I screwed it up.... Not today.
@Rivikah is the cotton comfortable against your head and hair? Maybe it will kind of cling to your hair and move it around when worn, of maybe it's kinda loud next to your ears or smthg.
Other than that, cotton lining may feel a bit warmer than the waterproof fabric.
Waterproof facing band sounds best regardless, it will give a bit more structure, and protect the lining (if applicable)
@just_chill in any case I plan to leave the hood part mostly unlined. There'll be a bit of a facing band around the front of the hood.
The part I can't decide about is the little cape part below the neck.
@Rivikah Oh no, I misread your question, apologies 
I would use a facing for some extra warmth.