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Jonathan Emmesedi<p>I love paisley.</p><p><a href="https://forums.vintagefashionguild.org/threads/a-pattern-through-time-from-persia-to-paisley-%E2%80%A2-the-vfg-fashion-parade-for-the-week-of-january-27-2025.84281/?_gl=1*ik0wq3*_ga*MTU1MDI1NTg2My4xNzQxNjM3NTkx*_ga_9S6T56LKQ5*MTc0MTYzNzU5MS4xLjEuMTc0MTYzNzYyOS4wLjAuMA" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://</span><span class="ellipsis">forums.vintagefashionguild.org</span><span class="invisible">/threads/a-pattern-through-time-from-persia-to-paisley-%E2%80%A2-the-vfg-fashion-parade-for-the-week-of-january-27-2025.84281/?_gl=1*ik0wq3*_ga*MTU1MDI1NTg2My4xNzQxNjM3NTkx*_ga_9S6T56LKQ5*MTc0MTYzNzU5MS4xLjEuMTc0MTYzNzYyOS4wLjAuMA</span></a>..</p><p><a href="https://c.im/tags/Paisley" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Paisley</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Pattern" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Pattern</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Fabric" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Fabric</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Fashion" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Fashion</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/VintageFashion" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>VintageFashion</span></a></p>
Jonathan Emmesedi<p>One of the great creators of the interwar years. She's a familiar name to fashion historians, but she deserves to be more widely remembered.</p><p><a href="https://c.im/tags/MadeleineVionnet" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>MadeleineVionnet</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/FashionHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>FashionHistory</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Couture" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Couture</span></a></p><p><a href="https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/madeleine-vionnet-an-introduction?srsltid=AfmBOopNw-itesBwomVCwsiwmQe6dTw-jFewR0-SP-jeQVZqzGewiz4y" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://www.</span><span class="ellipsis">vam.ac.uk/articles/madeleine-v</span><span class="invisible">ionnet-an-introduction?srsltid=AfmBOopNw-itesBwomVCwsiwmQe6dTw-jFewR0-SP-jeQVZqzGewiz4y</span></a></p>
Jonathan Emmesedi<p>It's only recently that I've learnt that the Mao suit was first developed by Sun Yat-sen.</p><p><a href="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20151007-from-red-guards-to-bond-villains-why-the-mao-suit-endures" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://www.</span><span class="ellipsis">bbc.com/culture/article/201510</span><span class="invisible">07-from-red-guards-to-bond-villains-why-the-mao-suit-endures</span></a></p><p><a href="https://c.im/tags/ZhongshanSuit" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>ZhongshanSuit</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/MaoSuit" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>MaoSuit</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/FashionHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>FashionHistory</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/ChineseHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>ChineseHistory</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/China" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>China</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/MaoZedong" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>MaoZedong</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/MensApparel" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>MensApparel</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/SunYatsen" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>SunYatsen</span></a></p>
Jonathan Emmesedi<p>I read this account of the rise and fall of Victoria's Secret over the weekend. If you're looking for a cultural studies text on this once iconic lingerie business, this book is not for you. The authors are fashion business journalists and "Selling Sexy" is a well sourced rag trade business history. I enjoyed learning more about the rise of specialty retail in the USA, outsourcing to Asia, and similar apparel industry topics, but others might find this material dry.</p><p>Yet the very nature of the business requires the authors to discuss marketing and image, which they do with a good grasp of race, ethnicity, and physique in the development of the various Victoria's Secret fantasy worlds. The narrative also describes, without pretending to explain completely, the still mysterious spell that Jeffrey Epstein cast over VS boss Leslie Wexner. In the final chapters of the book, the authors give a good account of how Victoria's Secret failed to adapt to the new age of <a href="https://c.im/tags/MeToo" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>MeToo</span></a>, the shaming of fatshamers, and Instagram influencers.</p><p>Although the book is not supposed to be a coffee table volume, I was disappointed by the paucity and limited range of illustrations, as a larger selection would have more clearly shown the changes in VS marketing over the years.</p><p>A rewarding read overall that made me think more about the pressures and desires women face when choosing, combining, or rejecting the pretty, the sexy, and the comfy. </p><p> </p><p>Selling Sexy</p><p><a href="https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250850966/sellingsexy/" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://</span><span class="ellipsis">us.macmillan.com/books/9781250</span><span class="invisible">850966/sellingsexy/</span></a></p><p><a href="https://c.im/tags/VictoriasSecret" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>VictoriasSecret</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/BusinessHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>BusinessHistory</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/FashionHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>FashionHistory</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Lingerie" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Lingerie</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/LeslieWexner" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>LeslieWexner</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Books" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Books</span></a></p>
Jonathan Emmesedi<p>I would love to visit Uruguay.</p><p>Looking at the romper style swimsuit with its lowcut back, I would guess that this poster is from the early to mid thirties.</p><p>I would welcome any information about this poster.</p><p><a href="https://c.im/tags/Uruguay" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Uruguay</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Poster" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Poster</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/TravelPoster" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>TravelPoster</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Swimsuit" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Swimsuit</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Fashion" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Fashion</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/1930s" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>1930s</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Thirties" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Thirties</span></a></p>
Jonathan Emmesedi<p>I recently posted about my hatred for cargo pants.</p><p>I don't resile from that judgement, but some posts from <span class="h-card" translate="no"><a href="https://apobangpo.space/@pixelcats" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">@<span>pixelcats</span></a></span> expressive of her generosity of spirit reminded me that I need to take care not to be a curmudgeon:</p><p>&gt;&gt;pixelcats@apobangpo.space<br>Pixelcats⁷<br><span class="h-card" translate="no"><a href="https://apobangpo.space/@pixelcats" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">@<span>pixelcats</span></a></span></p><p>@tikistitch @celli @croptopjin <span class="h-card" translate="no"><a href="https://c.im/@brie" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">@<span>brie</span></a></span> @purplecoww @asya I remember reading a toot very early on when I first joined Mastodon that said something about the joy of reading overly excited posts about weird niche topics and the people who love them. </p><p>And for me that really holds really true. I LOVE hearing about that weird thing you're interested in. Tell me why it's great, tell me how you found it, tell me why it makes you happy. I want to hear all the things.&lt;&lt;</p><p>&gt;&gt;pixelcats@apobangpo.space<br>Pixelcats⁷ <span class="h-card" translate="no"><a href="https://apobangpo.space/@pixelcats" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">@<span>pixelcats</span></a></span></p><p>@tikistitch @celli @croptopjin <span class="h-card" translate="no"><a href="https://c.im/@brie" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">@<span>brie</span></a></span> @purplecoww @asya It might not be my thing to be excited about, but I'll learn something about it or you and I'll feel a little bit of your joy. </p><p>And in a world where there is so much to be negative about right now, I say yay for more weird, unhinged joy. 💜,&lt;&lt;</p><p>So, in keeping with that more affirmative mode, I put it to you that the Chelsea boot is a thing of beauty and a joy for ever:</p><p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelsea_boot" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://</span><span class="ellipsis">en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelsea_</span><span class="invisible">boot</span></a></p><p><a href="https://c.im/tags/Shoes" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Shoes</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/ChelseaBoot" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>ChelseaBoot</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Footwear" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Footwear</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Fashion" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Fashion</span></a></p>
Jonathan Emmesedi<p>I loathe cargo pants.</p><p>A brief history of cargo pants, the military’s greatest fashion contribution</p><p><a href="https://www.militarytimes.com/off-duty/military-culture/2020/09/12/a-brief-history-of-cargo-pants-the-militarys-greatest-fashion-contribution/" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://www.</span><span class="ellipsis">militarytimes.com/off-duty/mil</span><span class="invisible">itary-culture/2020/09/12/a-brief-history-of-cargo-pants-the-militarys-greatest-fashion-contribution/</span></a></p><p><a href="https://c.im/tags/CargoPants" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>CargoPants</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Costume" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Costume</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Fashion" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Fashion</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/MilitaryUniform" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>MilitaryUniform</span></a></p>
Jonathan Emmesedi<p><span class="h-card" translate="no"><a href="https://botsin.space/@ExhibitExplorer" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">@<span>ExhibitExplorer</span></a></span> </p><p>I particularly like Hollar's dress engravings.<br> <br>See some examples here:</p><p><a href="https://fashion-era.com/english-costume/hollar-engravings-womens-gowns-1639-40-2.htm" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://</span><span class="ellipsis">fashion-era.com/english-costum</span><span class="invisible">e/hollar-engravings-womens-gowns-1639-40-2.htm</span></a></p><p><a href="https://c.im/tags/WenceslausHollar" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>WenceslausHollar</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Art" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Art</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/Print" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Print</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/FashionHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>FashionHistory</span></a> <a href="https://c.im/tags/17thCentury" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>17thCentury</span></a></p>
CarveHerName<p><a href="https://mstdn.social/tags/OnThisDay" class="mention hashtag" rel="tag">#<span>OnThisDay</span></a>, 31 Jan 2013, women in Paris are officially allowed to wear trousers again. </p><p>The 1799 law required women to ask police for permission to &quot;dress as men&quot;, or risk being taken into custody. </p><p>Najat Vallaud-Belkacem lifted the ban as “incompatible with the principles of equality between women and men”.</p><p>In practice, the revolutionary era ban was ignored anyway. </p><p><a href="https://mstdn.social/tags/WomenInHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="tag">#<span>WomenInHistory</span></a> <a href="https://mstdn.social/tags/Histodons" class="mention hashtag" rel="tag">#<span>Histodons</span></a> <a href="https://mstdn.social/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="tag">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a></p>
Jessica Quillin<p>Hugely informative carousel from the Met Costume Institute detailing the step-by-step process to restore the trim of a Jeanne Hallée dress. </p><p>This may be the most fascinating behind-the-scenes Insta post I’ve ever seen. </p><p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CmKjsZiuWnT/?igshid=ZDhmZGIxNmQ=" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://www.</span><span class="ellipsis">instagram.com/p/CmKjsZiuWnT/?i</span><span class="invisible">gshid=ZDhmZGIxNmQ=</span></a></p><p><a href="https://fashionsocial.host/tags/fashion" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>fashion</span></a> <a href="https://fashionsocial.host/tags/fashionhistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>fashionhistory</span></a> <a href="https://fashionsocial.host/tags/costume" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>costume</span></a> <a href="https://fashionsocial.host/tags/historyofdress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>historyofdress</span></a></p>
Hilary Doda<p>An introduction repeat, now that I'm moving instances. </p><p>I'm a dress historian with an interest in all things <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/adornment" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>adornment</span></a> and <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/MaterialCulture" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>MaterialCulture</span></a>. I'm interested in the <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a>, <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/HistoryOfTextiles" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfTextiles</span></a>, and the <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/EarlyModernAtlantic" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>EarlyModernAtlantic</span></a>. </p><p>I have a book in copy edits with MQUP right now on the dress culture of early <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/Acadia" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Acadia</span></a>, and a paper coming soon in Textile History on <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/weaving" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>weaving</span></a> in Scottish Cape Breton. You'll hear a lot more about these as publication gets closer.</p><p>My current big project is on <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/spurs" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>spurs</span></a> and <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/EarlyModern" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>EarlyModern</span></a> <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/masculinities" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>masculinities</span></a>, and I teach a four-course sequence on global <a href="https://hcommons.social/tags/FashionHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>FashionHistory</span></a> at Dalhousie University.</p>
Kara Shallenberg<p><span class="h-card"><a href="https://mastodon.world/@HilaryDoda" class="u-url mention" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">@<span>HilaryDoda</span></a></span> i am excited for all the <a href="https://zirk.us/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a>, <a href="https://zirk.us/tags/HistoryOfTextiles" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfTextiles</span></a>, and <a href="https://zirk.us/tags/FashionHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>FashionHistory</span></a> content you might share!</p>
Hilary Doda<p><a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/introduction" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>introduction</span></a> to the other <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/histodons" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>histodons</span></a> !</p><p>I'm a dress historian with an interest in all things <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/adornment" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>adornment</span></a> and <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/MaterialCulture" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>MaterialCulture</span></a>. I'm interested in the <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/HistoryOfDress" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfDress</span></a>, <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/HistoryOfTextiles" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>HistoryOfTextiles</span></a>, and the <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/EarlyModernAtlantic" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>EarlyModernAtlantic</span></a>. </p><p>I have a book in copy edits right now on the dress culture of early <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/Acadia" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Acadia</span></a>, and a paper coming soon on <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/weaving" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>weaving</span></a> in Scottish Cape Breton. </p><p>My current big project is on <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/spurs" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>spurs</span></a> and <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/EarlyModern" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>EarlyModern</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/masculinities" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>masculinities</span></a>, and I teach a four-course sequence on global <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/FashionHistory" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>FashionHistory</span></a>.</p>